Basic (strategy guide) - Revision history

Hexanna: (14*14)/6 is 33 moves per side

2022-10-12T23:24:51Z

(14*14)/6 is 33 moves per side

Selinger: /* Momentum */ -> initiative

2022-04-26T23:03:52Z

‎Momentum: -> initiative

Selinger: punctuation

2022-02-09T00:59:23Z

punctuation

Selinger: Added a link to the original.

2022-02-09T00:58:21Z

Added a link to the original.

Selinger: Modernized terminology: two-bridges and two-chains are now called "bridges"

2021-03-09T04:00:28Z

Modernized terminology: two-bridges and two-chains are now called "bridges"

Nickname: Restored original content.

2017-03-21T05:44:57Z

Restored original content.

Roland Illig: /* Blocking moves */ changed markup

2012-11-12T05:22:36Z

‎Blocking moves: changed markup

Hex player1: +category

2012-11-09T12:38:30Z

+category

Nickname: /* Blocking moves */

2011-05-10T03:08:24Z

‎Blocking moves

Nickname: /* Blocking moves */

2011-05-10T02:59:32Z

‎Blocking moves

@@ Line 139: / Line 139: @@
 * 10 &times; 10: 16 moves per side
 * 11 &times; 11: 20 moves per side
-* 14 &times; 14: 28 moves per side
+* 14 &times; 14: 33 moves per side
 * 17 &times; 17: 48 moves per side
 * 19 &times; 19: 60 moves per side (this is the standard size in Go)

@@ Line 93: / Line 93: @@
 In Hex, good [[offense]] and good [[defense]] are entirely equivalent. If you complete a connection between your sides, then your opponent is prevented from completing theirs. Conversely, if your opponent is prevented from completing a connection, then you must have completed yours (draws cannot occur in Hex). Furthermore, the only way to complete a connection is to prevent your opponent from making a connection and the only way to prevent your opponent from connecting is to complete your connection. In a very real sense, you don't have to worry about whether you should play offensively or defensively since they are the same. The critical point to remember is that unless you are making a sequence of [[forcing move|forcing plays]], it is generally easier to think in terms of good defense than good offense regardless of whether you are currently winning or losing. This point about thinking defensively should frequently be used with point 3.1 above. Often it is best to look for the connection that your opponent is going to have the toughest time making (point 3.1 above). For example, suppose that my opponent's most difficult connection to complete looks like the connection to the right edge of the board. Then I'll look for good defensive moves that make it even more difficult for my opponent to connect up to the right edge.
-=== Momentum ===
+=== Initiative ===
-''(See also the page [[Momentum]])''
+''(See also the page [[Initiative]])''
-The player who is dictating the play is said to have the '''momentum'''. Alternatively, the momentum is against the player who is being forced to respond to the opponent. The player with the momentum usually has the advantage and this advantage is often decisive. You should generally not hand over the momentum to the opponent unless you have a very good reason for doing so. In well played close matches, the momentum often swings between the two players with each move.
+The player who is dictating the play is said to have the '''initiative'''. Alternatively, a player who is being forced to respond to the opponent lacks the initiative. The player with the initiative usually has the advantage and this advantage is often decisive. You should generally not hand over the initiative to the opponent unless you have a very good reason for doing so. In well played close matches, the initiative often swings between the two players with each move.
 === Multiple threats per move ===

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:59, 9 February 2022
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−	''Adapted with permission from [http://www.gcrhoads.byethost4.com/GamesPuzzles/Basic.html Glenn C. Rhoads basic strategy guide].''	+	''Adapted with permission from [http://www.gcrhoads.byethost4.com/GamesPuzzles/Basic.html Glenn C. Rhoads's basic strategy guide].''

	== Rules of Hex ==		== Rules of Hex ==

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:58, 9 February 2022
Line 1:		Line 1:
−	''Adapted with permission from Glenn C. Rhoads strategy guide.''	+	''Adapted with permission from [http://www.gcrhoads.byethost4.com/GamesPuzzles/Basic.html Glenn C. Rhoads basic strategy guide].''

	== Rules of Hex ==		== Rules of Hex ==

@@ Line 18: / Line 18: @@
 <hex>R4 C4 Q1</hex>
-=== The two-bridge ===
+=== The bridge ===
 ''(See also the article [[Bridge]])''
-The formation consisting of two pieces that are non-adjacent but have two empty neighboring hexes in common is referred to as a [[bridge|two-bridge]]; e.g. the pieces on b2 and c3, and the empty hexes b3 and c2 in the following diagram form a two-bridge.
+The formation consisting of two pieces that are non-adjacent but have two empty neighboring hexes in common is referred to as a [[bridge]]; e.g. the pieces on b2 and c3, and the empty hexes b3 and c2 in the following diagram form a bridge.
 <hex>R4 C4 Q1 Vb2 Vc3</hex>
-The two pieces are almost as strongly connected as a solid chain from b2 to c3. The opponent can attempt to break this connection only by playing a piece at either b3 or c2, and no matter which one the opponent plays, you can play the other and restore the link. For most purposes you can think of the two-bridge pieces as already being connected. By connecting pieces via two-bridges, you can spread across the board twice as fast as by playing adjacent hexes.
+The two pieces are almost as strongly connected as a solid chain from b2 to c3. The opponent can attempt to break this connection only by playing a piece at either b3 or c2, and no matter which one the opponent plays, you can play the other and restore the link. For most purposes you can think of the bridge pieces as already being connected. By connecting pieces via bridges, you can spread across the board twice as fast as by playing adjacent hexes.
 {| border="0" cellpadding="2"
 | <hex>R7 C7 Q1 Ve1 Ve2 Vd3</hex> || <hex>R7 C7 Q1 Ve2 Vd4 Vc6</hex>
 |-
-| <center>''Expanding by adjacent moves''</center> || <center>''Expanding by two-chains''</center>
+| <center>''Expanding by adjacent moves''</center> || <center>''Expanding by bridges''</center>
 |}
-Considered in isolation the pieces in a two-chain are [[strong connection|connected]] but sometimes a two-chain can be broken by playing a piece in the middle of a two-chain that contains some other [[threat]] that must be immediately answered. After the opponent answers the threat, you can then play in the other hex in the two-chain breaking the connection.
+Considered in isolation the pieces in a bridge are [[strong connection|connected]] but sometimes a bridge can be broken by playing a piece in the middle of a bridge that contains some other [[threat]] that must be immediately answered. After the opponent answers the threat, you can then play in the other hex in the bridge breaking the connection.
-Also, playing in the middle of a two-chain can be a good play even when the opponent should and does respond by saving the link. The reason being that the piece played may be useful later.
+Also, playing in the middle of a bridge can be a good play even when the opponent should and does respond by saving the link. The reason being that the piece played may be useful later.
 === Blocking moves ===
@@ Line 49: / Line 49: @@
 <hex>R11 C11 labels red h1 h2 h3 g4 g5 g6 blue play numbered g7 f7 e8 f8</hex>
-Another try from the original position would be to block at a two-chain distance away at f8 (see diagram below). This is better than the [[adjacent block]] but sometimes the opponent can flow around this too by two-chaining at an angle &mdash; e.g. by playing h7 in response to f8.  (h7 should be met by either h8 or g9.)
+Another try from the original position would be to block at a bridge distance away at f8 (see diagram below). This is better than the [[adjacent block]] but sometimes the opponent can flow around this too by bridging at an angle &mdash; e.g. by playing h7 in response to f8.  (h7 should be met by either h8 or g9.)
 <hex>R11 C11 labels red h1 h2 h3 g4 g5 g6 blue play numbered f8 h7</hex>
-Another possibility is to combine the above two ideas by first doing an adjacent block at g7 and then if the vertical player responds with f7, you block at a two-chain distance away at e9.  Then your opponent cannot two-chain towards the right because of the initial g7 piece.
+Another possibility is to combine the above two ideas by first doing an adjacent block at g7 and then if the vertical player responds with f7, you block at a bridge distance away at e9.  Then your opponent cannot bridge towards the right because of the initial g7 piece.
 <hex>R11 C11 labels red h1 h2 h3 g4 g5 g6 blue play numbered g7 f7 e9</hex>
-A good block in the original position is to block at one hex farther back than the two-chain block at either e9 or f9 (sometimes this is referred to as the [[classic block]]). For example suppose H blocks at f9 (see diagram below).  Two-chaining to f8 is met by e9. Two-chaining to the lower right (h7) is met by h8 and two-chaining towards the lower-left (e7) is met by d8.  By blocking at a distance, you have a move or two before the advancing head reaches the blocking pieces. Note that when the board size is smaller than 11 &times; 11, then the classic block is much less useful due to the lack of space.
+A good block in the original position is to block at one hex farther back than the bridge block at either e9 or f9 (sometimes this is referred to as the [[classic block]]). For example suppose H blocks at f9 (see diagram below).  Bridging to f8 is met by e9. Bridging to the lower right (h7) is met by h8 and bridging towards the lower-left (e7) is met by d8.  By blocking at a distance, you have a move or two before the advancing head reaches the blocking pieces. Note that when the board size is smaller than 11 &times; 11, then the classic block is much less useful due to the lack of space.
 <hex>R11 C11 labels red h1 h2 h3 g4 g5 g6 blue play numbered f9 f8 e9 h7 h8 e7 d8</hex>

@@ Line 39: / Line 39: @@
 === Blocking moves ===
-When you have no pieces in the area, it is usually best to start blocking broadly close to at least one of your edges and not too close to the opponent's piece.
+When you have no pieces in the area, it is usually best to start blocking not too close to the opponent's piece.
-−
-If your blocking move has too little influence on both your edges, then the opponent has at least two good zones of the board that are worth trying, one for each side. For example, compare the situation for blue in these two cases.
-−
-<hex>R11 C11 labels play numbered f6 e9 g8 f7 h6 h9 c9</hex>
-−
-In this case, the blue initial pieces (E9 and F7) have very little influence on both blue's edges and thus don't provide any immediate threat on bottom. Blue has no choice but to play D8, which however is still far from being connected to any blue's edge.
-−
-<hex>R11 C11 labels play numbered f6 f8 e8 f7 e7 d3</hex>
-−
-This position on the other hand is quite more tricky for red to play correctly than the first. Blue is still too much focused (unavoidably, given the weak position) on bottom but, after having obtained a reasonable influence on the right side, he can now concentrate his efforts on the left side of the board.
 If you block too close to the opponent, then he can simply flow around the attempted block. For example, suppose you are trying to stop the vertical player from connecting to the bottom in the following diagram.

@@ Line 43: / Line 43: @@
 If your blocking move has too little influence on both your edges, then the opponent has at least two good zones of the board that are worth trying, one for each side. For example, compare the situation for blue in these two cases.
-<hex>R11 C11 Q1 MV Mf6 Me9 Mg8 Mf7 Mh6 Mh9 Mc9</hex>
+<hex>R11 C11 labels play numbered f6 e9 g8 f7 h6 h9 c9</hex>
 In this case, the blue initial pieces (E9 and F7) have very little influence on both blue's edges and thus don't provide any immediate threat on bottom. Blue has no choice but to play D8, which however is still far from being connected to any blue's edge.
-<hex>R11 C11 Q1 MV Mf6 Mf8 Me8 Mf7 Me7 Md3</hex>
+<hex>R11 C11 labels play numbered f6 f8 e8 f7 e7 d3</hex>
 This position on the other hand is quite more tricky for red to play correctly than the first. Blue is still too much focused (unavoidably, given the weak position) on bottom but, after having obtained a reasonable influence on the right side, he can now concentrate his efforts on the left side of the board.
@@ Line 53: / Line 53: @@
 If you block too close to the opponent, then he can simply flow around the attempted block. For example, suppose you are trying to stop the vertical player from connecting to the bottom in the following diagram.
-<hex>R11 C11 Q1 Vh1 Vh2 Vh3 Vg4 Vg5 Vg6</hex>
+<hex>R11 C11 labels red h1 h2 h3 g4 g5 g6</hex>
 If you try to block by playing adjacent to the [[leading piece]], say by playing at g7, then the vertical player can simply step around it at f7 (see diagram below). Then the attempted block at say e8, could similarly be met by playing at f8. Obviously, you are not making any progress here.
-<hex>R11 C11 Q1 Vh1 Vh2 Vh3 Vg4 Vg5 Vg6 MH Mg7 Mf7 Me8 Mf8</hex>
+<hex>R11 C11 labels red h1 h2 h3 g4 g5 g6 blue play numbered g7 f7 e8 f8</hex>
 Another try from the original position would be to block at a two-chain distance away at f8 (see diagram below). This is better than the [[adjacent block]] but sometimes the opponent can flow around this too by two-chaining at an angle &mdash; e.g. by playing h7 in response to f8.  (h7 should be met by either h8 or g9.)
-<hex>R11 C11 Q1 Vh1 Vh2 Vh3 Vg4 Vg5 Vg6 MH Mf8 Mh7</hex>
+<hex>R11 C11 labels red h1 h2 h3 g4 g5 g6 blue play numbered f8 h7</hex>
 Another possibility is to combine the above two ideas by first doing an adjacent block at g7 and then if the vertical player responds with f7, you block at a two-chain distance away at e9.  Then your opponent cannot two-chain towards the right because of the initial g7 piece.
-<hex>R11 C11 Q1 Vh1 Vh2 Vh3 Vg4 Vg5 Vg6 MH Mg7 Mf7 Me9</hex>
+<hex>R11 C11 labels red h1 h2 h3 g4 g5 g6 blue play numbered g7 f7 e9</hex>
 A good block in the original position is to block at one hex farther back than the two-chain block at either e9 or f9 (sometimes this is referred to as the [[classic block]]). For example suppose H blocks at f9 (see diagram below).  Two-chaining to f8 is met by e9. Two-chaining to the lower right (h7) is met by h8 and two-chaining towards the lower-left (e7) is met by d8.  By blocking at a distance, you have a move or two before the advancing head reaches the blocking pieces. Note that when the board size is smaller than 11 &times; 11, then the classic block is much less useful due to the lack of space.
-<hex>R11 C11 Q1 Vh1 Vh2 Vh3 Vg4 Vg5 Vg6 MH Mf9 Mf8 Me9 Mh7 Mh8 Me7 Md8</hex>
+<hex>R11 C11 labels red h1 h2 h3 g4 g5 g6 blue play numbered f9 f8 e9 h7 h8 e7 d8</hex>
 Suppose Red opens with G4 and Blue plays E6 yielding the following.
-<hex>R10 C10 Q1 Vg4 He6</hex>
+<hex>R10 C10 labels play numbered g4 e6</hex>
-Blue's play is what I call an <strong>indirect block</strong>; it does not directly block the Red G4 from the bottom rather it threatens to block it on the next move.  Red
+Blue's play is what I call an '''indirect block'''; it does not directly block the Red G4 from the bottom rather it threatens to block it on the next move.  Red
 cannot afford to ignore this threat. If for example Red plays G3, Blue responds
 with G5 completely cutting off Red's pieces from the bottom.
-<hex>R10 C10 Q1 Vg4 Vg3 He6 MH Mg5</hex>
+<hex>R10 C10 labels play g4 e6 numbered g3 g5</hex>
 Instead Red can play towards the bottom with F6 and blue can complete his block
 by playing E8 for example.
-<hex>R10 C10 Q1 Vg4 He6 MV Mf6 Me8</hex>
+<hex>R10 C10 labels play g4 e6 numbered f6 e8</hex>
-<strong>Blocking Summation</strong><br>
+'''Blocking Summation'''<br>
 The most important thing for a beginner to do is to avoid the mistake of repeatedly trying to block by playing adjacent to the head of the chain as shown in the first example. Playing ahead of the chain as in the classic block gives you a move or two to place your pieces before the advancing chain meets your pieces.

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:38, 9 November 2012
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	* [[Advanced (strategy guide)]]		* [[Advanced (strategy guide)]]

		+	[[category:opening]]
	[[category:Basic Strategy]]		[[category:Basic Strategy]]